the dalton highway

September 18, 2013

Day: 17

Total mileage (car): 3003

Total mileage (with ferry): 3848.5

The Dalton Highway. It is simply too hard to explain in words what an unbelievable "Alaskan" experience this is - but I'll give it a try.

On the Dalton!

The highway heads due north about 80 miles to the north of Fairbanks.  It takes you all the way to Deadhorse (if you care to journey that far).  The Dalton was built back in the 70's along with the Alaska Pipeline. Switchbacks?  They haven't heard of those apparently.  It's either up or down.  As CJ said, "I've never had to downshift the truck to get up a hill before!" You forge over mountains, rivers and across tundra on mainly dirt roads.  Dirt when its dry, that is.  With a bit of water (or snow), it turns to a sloppy, slushy mud and ice run.  The roads take on a "roller coaster" feel due to the permafrost layer.  And then imagine truckers streaming past you on a road barely wide enough for two.  Drop offs on either side, if you don't keep up the pace they'll run you over.  There is one gas station, Coldfoot, between Fairbanks and Deadhorse - and if you have any sense about you, you'll spend the $5.09 and fill up your tank. This is the Alaska frontier, folks. 

Into the bush.

We had an unforgettable experience.

Following the pipeline.

We had gorgeous weather Day 1.  Views for miles and great road conditions.  We've been lucky - too lucky some would say. We reached the Arctic Circle and kept right on chugging. Did you know that above the arctic circle the permafrost is a continuous layer versus active layer?  Meaning it never really thaws.  Rock solid ground. 

Flying over the Arctic Circle.

We made the necessary diesel stop in Coldfoot.  Which in the winter of 1989, hit a record low of -82 F.  And didn't go above -62 F for 17 days.  That summer?  Temperatures hit 97 F - a temperature differential of 179 degrees that broke North American records.  The story goes that they named the town after a rather chilly winter during the turn of the century when gold miners got "cold feet" and headed south.  I don't blame them.

Coldfoot.  That's all she wrote.

Coldfoot is your classic pioneer truck stop.  Gas, food and pay phones.  Forget wifi or cell coverage up in these parts.  You ain't got nothin' till Deadhorse.

As we approached Atigun Pass, the clouds started rolling in, snow started falling and the temperature dropped to a lovely 10 degrees (without windchill).  We made it to Galbraith Lake Camp on the north side of the Brooks Range, about 140 miles from Deadhorse and decided that would be our turn around.  Winter is upon arctic tundra and after much discussion (and hesitation), we headed back for the south side of the mountains. 

Atigun pass in the distance.

At the pass!  Brrr!

Our most northern point: 68 degrees, 32 minutes and .915 seconds.  Pretty rad.  2,903 miles of driving north and we have finally turned south.



That blue stuff?  The North Sea. Yeah, we're up there people.



The arctic tundra. 



So pretty.

Malcolm family craziness

Colter getting his run on at 68 degrees latitude.

We crossed back over the Brooks Range (which is part of the Gates of the Arctic National Preserve) and found a lovely camp down by Coldfoot.  

The south side of the mountains

We'll be back - next time?  Deadhorse!

We awoke to more snow and ventured south along the Dalton is some seriously fun driving conditions.  Fun for us, that is.  Nothing like a good challenge when you are well prepared.  Our first Alaskan storm - the perfect place to have it.

Marion Campground

Fishing along the Koyukuk river.

Slushy, muddy heaven.

Wow.  Alaskan mud gets everywhere.